Wednesday 20 July 2011

SRI LANKA: WILD LIFE, FAUNA & FLORA

Sinharaja & Other National Parks

Vignettes of Sinharaja
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Kosgulana range as seen from Sinhagala
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Hinipitigala East and West, viewed from Sinhagala
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Spreading over the districts of Ratnapura, Galle and Matara, Sinharaja, our great tropical rain forest, by all accounts is a vast repository of national wealth. Given its sheer size, biological diversity and the history therein, Sinharaja naturally eludes complete description, and is certainly not "capturable" in a single visit. Indeed even a lifetime of wandering in that enchanting vastness might still not result in the trees, the ferns, the creatures and the varied textures revealing their numerous secrets. A single visit, then, must necessarily scratch the surface. What follows then is a story of what the place yielded over a short period as Ajith Malli and I walked mostly along known paths with the occasional departure off the beaten track.
Let me begin our story from the point when we are about to climb Sinhagala, located deep within the Sinharaja.
We have now come to the most arduous section of our journey. Several hours had already passed since we started. Our feet ache. For some reason, the haversack seemed to be much heavier on the shoulders than before. The boots, themselves seemingly heavier, has forced us to slow down. Through the dense undergrowth and rocky terrain there suddenly appeared a hill, rising steeply right ahead. Below lay the steep incline we had just climbed. The slightest slip could very well result in serious injury. We are not onto the most difficult and dangerous section of our journey.
An hour has passed since the sun reached its zenith. A full five hours after gulping down a light breakfast, we have now almost come to the end of the journey.
The verdant forest cover stretching in all directions is now visible, just as a lighthouse offers a view of the endless ocean. Such is the density that the trees appear to be clinging onto each other, inextricably bound with one another. The tops of the tallest trees, appear to imitate the ocean waves, as they rock back and forth with the wind. At times they are as still as a monk, deep in meditation. The scenery all around was breathtaking. Far away a Serpent Eagle was gliding ever so slowly, presumably focused on its prey. The mysterious silence of the jungle was occasionally broken by the incessant chirping of crickets.
All around us lie the great tropical rain forest, Sinharaja, subject of much controversy, in view of moves to bring it under the hammer of untrammelled plunder by way of the Tropical Forest Conservation Act of the USA. Sinharaja is steeped in history. In fact it is claimed that this forest had its origin in the ancient forests that covered the lost continent of Godwanaland. As that giant land mass broke up, the portion that remained in this island came to be known as Sinharaja.
Covering a total area of 118425 acres, according to folk lore, this forest was first known as the "Sinhalaye Mukalana" (Forest of the Sinhale whose boundaries were unseen), and later came to be known as Sinhalaye Raja Vanaya (The Royal Forest of the Sinhale) and finally shortened to Sinharaja.
Sinhagala is the most prominent of all the nine peaks that are found in Sinharaja. There are interesting folk stories about the name Sinhagala. Some have it that a long long time ago, there lived a lion in a cave at the foot of the hill. The ancients believe that this lion ruled a vast extent of land and a giant had thrown massive rocks and eventually killed the beast. This "cave" is supposed to have been called Sinha Lena (Cave of the lion) and the place where the rocks thrown by the giant lay, "Yoda Gal Goda". This is the story that was related by Ajith Malli, a volunteer tracker of the Sinharaja Conservation Office, Kudawe.
Martin Aiya, better known as Professor Martin due to his vast knowledge of Sinharaja, who is from an ancient village bordering the forest, had a different story to tell. According to him, there is no cave anywhere near Sinhagala capable of housing a lion. As for the rocks, he claimed they were unearthed over the years by gem miners.
There are many points of entry into Sinharaja. One could come through Kalawana; by way of Veddagala, from the Eastern side; through Rakwana Morning Side Estate; from the Southwest, the Beverley Estate in Deniyaya; from Northeast through Daffodil Estate, Rakwana; and from the Southeast, through Kosmulla along the Hiniduma-Neluwa Road.
Once we reached the peak our weariness seemed to have evaporated. In fact a sense of invigoration quickly enveloped us. It was a privilege to stand upon the summit, gazing upon all that lay beneath, transfixed in wonderment. The natural beauty surrounding us was spiritually uplifting and it infused into me certain sensations that will allow me to relive that calm contentment again and again as long as I have life and memory.
I inquired from Ajith Malli about the two proud hills that rose from the South. "Those are named Hinipitigala West and Hinipitigala East. There are a total of 9 such peaks within Sinharaja. These are the tallest among them. They are 1170m and 1168m in height, respectively. What you can see far away on your left, is Kosgunala (797m). Next is Mulawella (760m). Sinhagala is 742m in height." He said that we had walked about 14 kms to come here, perhaps allowing me to ascertain the relative distances.
It was well past lunch time, and Ajith Malli and I munched on cream crackers, washing it all down with the little water that remained in our bottles. We spent a long time enjoying the splendid scenery around us and started on our way down again. Making our way along the stream that lay at the foot of Sinhagala was difficult because the stones were slippery. We crossed the stream and came to a thick glade of Nelu. Walking through it increased our weariness several fold.
As anyone who has been to Sinharaja would agree, there is no escape from the hordes of leaches that infest the undergrowth. The only thing to do was to allow these creatures to have their fill of blood. A lot of people who venture into Sinharaja show an unusual degree of revulsion and fear at these creatures. The previous day, I had the opportunity to witness a bevy of young Russian girls screaming and running in all directions. Their faces were red. They carried on their white skins blotches of purple, the sure sign of a leach attack, so to speak. Their faces and their voices betrayed utmost terror.
I found Ajith Malli stopping every now and again, scratching his entire body. Clearly embarrassed, he offered that there were more leaches around these days on account of the rains. "We were lucky that the sun was out today. It has been raining hard every evening for the past several days".
The Heen Dola was moving at its usual leisurely pace. We stopped to rest awhile, listening quietly to the soothing sound of the stream. In this stream can be found the Bulath Hapaya (Black Ruby Barb — Puntius nigrofaciatus), Gal Pandiya (Stone Sucker — Garra ceylonensi), and the more rare Pathirana Salaya (Barred Danio — Danio pathirana). Apparently there are 20 species of fish in Sinharaja, among which seven are endemic to the area.
There are 12 species of mammals to be found in Sinharaja, of which eight are endemic to Sri Lanka. Kola Wandura (Purple faced leaf monkey — Presbytis senax vetulus), Gona (Sambhur— Cervus unicolour), diviya (Leopard — Panthera pardus kotiya), Olu Muwa (Barking deer— Muntiacus muntijak), Wild boar (Pus scrofa) are found here.
There are both native and migratory birds here. A total of 20 species have been documented here among which 18 are endemic to Sri Lanka. Among these are theKehibella (Sri Lanka Blue Magpie — Cissa oruata), Vatharathu malkoha (Sri Lanka Red Faced Malkoha— Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocaephalus), Anduru Nil Mesimara (Sri Lanka Dusky Blue Flycatcher— Musciapa sordida).
There are 19 species of amphibians, of which 10 are endemic, 65 species of butterflies of which 21 are endemic have been documented. Among the butterflies found in Sinharaja are, Common Bird wing (Troidus helena), Blue Mormon (Paoilio Polymnestor), Blue oakleaf (Kallima philarchas). There are 72 species of reptiles, of which 21 are endemic.
Needless to say, the rich fauna includes colourful flowers, ferns and vines, blending harmoniously with the great trees. Among the more common flowers found in Sinharaja is the Hambu or the Bim Orchid (Arundina graminifolia) . There are two varieties of the carnivorous Bandura, the green one (Nepanthus distillatoria ) which is the more common and the less common red one, Rathu Bandura. The latter is said to have curative properties, especially in the treatment of whooping cough.
In a nearby branch was a wonderfully woven cobweb, reigning over which was a giant spider. The female of the species is said to be larger than the male. My guide, diligently took the trouble to educate me about these things. I listened to him as attentively as my need to capture these images in photographs permitted me.
"This spider is called the Mookalan Makuluwa. It is also called the Kele Makuluwa. The scientific term is Nephia maculata. In English, "Wood Spider". The large one with the black and yellow spots is the female. The male is more reddish in colour.
"This is an Aridda tree (Compnosperma zeylanica). This is endemic to Sri Lanka. It grows up to reach the canopy. Nearby is the tree Ginihota (Tree fern — Cyathia walkeri). This is one of the largest ferns endemic to the country. Long ago, our ancestors are said to have used this to light torches."
Now we are near the Research Centre of Sinharaja. This is used for research purposes by the Botany Department of Peradeniya University. Around three hundred and fifty meters from here is a majestic Navanda tree. Its trunk must have been about 21 feet in circumference. It was about 145 feet in height. The light was too poor for a photograph. We had already walked more than 25 kilometers. We were dead tired, naturally. Darkness was pursuing us. It was gradually encroaching on the surroundings. We still had a couple of kilometers to go. And still, the joys of the journey and the wonders we had encountered and indeed were encountering each moment served to lighten our hearts and take away the pain in our bodies.
We were now close to Martin Aiya’s place, "Disithuru", haven for itinerant travellers such as we. As the darkness descended the mysteriousness of the forest grew and enveloped us. The lamp light from Martin Aiy.a’s house twinkled like fireflies in the distance. I quietly soaked in the deep silence.
It was already very cold. Still, it was a night I knew I would cherish simply because the following day I would be returning to the dust-filled, noisy city, teeming with people and full of the cacophony of koththu roti boutiques. Tomorrow and on tomorrows to follow, I would have to really on dreams, dreams of another time like this, another journey of discovery and amazement.



Yala National Park 
Yala West (Ruhuna) National Park is well recognised as one of the best parks in the world to observe and photograph leopards. The park covers an area of over 100,000 hectares and is divided into five blocks. Block one is the most visited area since it contains the highest density of leopards. However other areas of Yala such as Yala East had been closed to visitors for some years and it will take time to research leopard numbers in these areas. Yala West consists of scrub jungle, brackish lagoons and stunning rock monoliths scattered throughout the park, its eastern edge is bounded by the South East coast.
An excellent 'Natural World' wildlife documentary was filmed here featuring the 'Leopards of Yala', by Gordon Buchanan. Two local leopard experts, Jehan Kumara and Ravi Samarasinha assisted with the research and filming, Ravi continues his study of the park and its residents. One of the main findings of the film was that Yala has well over thirty leopards, probably the highest density anywhere in the world. It is also thought that Sri Lankan leopards are a distinct sub-species from their Indian neighbours, and the largest leopards in Asia.
It is possible to take full day jeep safaris or to split your day into morning and afternoon drives. Your best chance to see a leopard is generally early in the morning and then again at dusk. You can stay until just after dark inside the park, thus maximising your chances of a leopard encounter. The male leopards in Yala are very confident and are often seen walking the tracks during the day. Young males in particular seem to have no fear of the jeep, which can lead to some excellent photographic opportunities. There are similarities between Yala and the best National Parks in India for photographing tigers, in both cases the big cats have become habitualised to the jeeps thus enabling us to enjoy a privileged view of these magnificent animals.
There is also a substantial elephant population along with spotted deer, sambar, wild buffalo, sloth bear, jackal, mongoose, pangolins and crocodiles. The bird life comprises over 120 species, and ranges from lesser flamingos to Paradise Flycatchers, Crested Hawk Eagles, and Black Bitterns. Outside of the park are several other fascinating birding locations, including the ancient hermitage of Sithulpahuwa, Debarawewa wetland and Palatupana saltpans. The coastline forms a major nesting ground for marine turtles.
Jeeps here have 'soft-tops' to provide a degree of camouflage to humans, as well as cover from the regular showers. The drier season falls between May and August and the park closes for a short time during September and October.



Vilpattu: The biggest national park in Lanka

 


Returning recently after a visit to the Ruhuna (Yala) National Park, where the visual pickings were meagre, my thoughts turned to the Vilpattu National Park which has been closed for several years owing to the north-east war.


Damaged skull of rogue elephant seen in the Maradanmaduwa office, pierced by the Manikkapola tusker.
115 miles from Colombo and 18 miles from Anuradhapura, Vilpattu is the biggest national park in this country covering around 500 sq. miles.
From a game sanctuary in 1909 it was redesignated a national park in 1938, and since the 1950s was developed and transformed into a first class wildlife showcase.
Vilpattu will always he my park par excellence because of its unique landscape of around 30 freshwater lakes called vila in Sinhalese and villu in Tamil. These sand-rimmed lakes surrounded by grass and high forest are where the animals and birds are best seen.
Kumbukwila and Nelunwila in particular are a bird watchers' paradise. In the middle of the lakes are painted stork, grey heron, cormorants and darters, while lapwing, plover and blue coot rummage among the reeds nearer the edge. Duck godwit and sandpipers are winter visitors from October to April. We were allowed to get down from our vehicles there to study the birds.
On the top-most branches of the trees in the forest are hornbills who attract a lot of attention because of their comical looks and loud metallic voices. Comical they may look but strict husbands they are, locking their mates within clay walls in their hollow tree trunk nests until the eggs are hatched and the young ready to fly.
The inmates are fed through a hole in the clay wall. Pig, deer and leopard frequent the lakes. Elephants are less frequent preferring the Pomparippu plain and the open areas around the Kala-oya. Vilpattu has the largest concentration of leopard in this country - sixty of them we were told when he last visited in the 1970s.
At that time there was a most obliging leopard in Borupan who was not at all shy to show himself
We had the good fortune to meet up with him sprawled across the jeep track.
Our jeep drew up right behind him but the beast did not budge. He looked scornfully over his shoulder and continued to roll over and over in the sand, scratching his body and chasing his tail.
Occasionally he would stop to glare at us, and finally stretching like a house-cat he moved slowly into the trees master of all he surveyed, confident that no other creature in the forest would touch him.
Our guide commented that Mr Spots must obviously have eaten well to give us such a performance that had lasted ten minutes or more.
He was right. We could get the putrefying stench of the leopard's 'kill' stashed in a tree nearby. It is strange that leopards relish tainted meat.
But fortunately for them they have a poor sense of smell.
There is an interesting exhibit of a pierced elephant skull in the Maradanmaduwa office. The story behind it is that a rogue elephant, suffering from festered gun shot wounds, had entered the park, and in its demented state had clashed with the Manikkapola tusker. After a terrific fight where the two beasts butted each other, the tusker put the rogue out of his misery with a tremendous thrust to the head. The skull shows a wide fracture at the top of the cranium where one of his tusks had made contact.
Apart from its wonderful lakes and sumptuous repository of wildlife, Vilpattu also has something to offer in the way of legend.
On the western perimeter of the park overlooking the sea is Mount Kudremalai, at the foot of which was an ancient harbour.
Legend claims that the first settlers from India (Prince Vijaya and followers) disembarked there and reached the hinterland through forest tracks in Vilpattu. On the way they encountered the sorceress Kuveni by name. Next to the Kalivillu bungalow in the park are some ruins of stone pillars and guardstones that are spuriously referred to as Kuveni's temple.
More ruins may be seen near the Kokmotte bungalow. The road to Kokmotte traverses bear country, and I can still picture vividly in my mind the sight of a mother bear waddling along with a cub riding piggyback.
At a place called Ochappu Kallu (leaning stone) there are heaps of pillars, leaning, fallen down and erect. There are also inscriptions said to date back to the second century BC.
And there's Tantrimalai which now lies within the area of the park that was added in 1969. It is where the royal procession conducting Sangamitta Theri with the Sri Maha Bodhi sapling stayed overnight on the way to Anuradhapura.
A large shrine was later built there to mark the occasion. All that is left of it is a vandalised reclining image of the Buddha about 10 metres long, and Bodhi tree said to have been raised from a sprout taken from the Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura.
Yes indeed my reminiscences of Vilpattu are still evergreen. And uppermost in my mind at the moment is the question of when this park be reopened to the public, now that the peace process is gaining ground.
We need a welcome change of scene where national parks are concerned. Vilpattu is the answer, where a visitor can be more or less assured of a visual bag of leopard, bear, deer, pig, elephant may be, and so much bird life in a single day



The birth of a National Park: Redeeming Uda Walawe




Green bee-eater bathed in the golden sunlight.
It is one thing to make a paper declaration of a National Park. It is quite another to ensure its integrity and its purpose. Nowhere is this better illustrated than in the recent history of Uda Walawe.
Mr. Noel de Costa, writing as Editor of Loris in Vol. XV No. 4, describes the situation graphically.
"The creation of the (Uda Walawe) Park was first mooted as far back as 1968 and was eventually declared a Park by Gazette in 1971... But as a National Park it was stillborn... It was a National Park only in name... There were inside an estimated 15,000 squatters who had devastated it beyond recall. Besides there were two purana villages inside it.
During the six years that followed, the Park did not receive any attention at all and was nobody's baby. It became a poacher's paradise. There was practically not a tree left. Unrestricted logging and chena had seen to that. There was no control whatever of human activity."
My first inspection of the Park in early 1978 in the company of a senior Ranger Ainsley Fernando and some wildlife guards, was a nightmare. There were people everywhere and the place looked like a new colonisation scheme. Fires burned in the distance. The grasslands were populated with vast herds of domestic cattle. Of a wild animal there was not a trace.
We managed to reach the village of Seenukkgala (where today a park bungalow has been erected) well inside the park. Ainsley summoned Mahatun, self-appointed leader.
He greeted us. He was happy too, for certain ministers had apparently promised them permanent cultivation and homes and deeds to go along with them! We ignored him and resumed our perilous journey through the mud and slush of logging tracks, to Veheramankade, our campsite on the left bank of the Walawe Ganga.
Around our camp fire that night we had only one thing on our minds - can we "redeem" this park, which was meant to protect the catchment area of the Uda Walawe reservoir whose irrigation waters were the life-blood of the farmers of the deep south. It was the responsibility of the Department to ensure that erosion did not cause excessive siltage and reduce the reservoir's capacity. We also had to protect hundreds of elephants in the Walawe basin where elephant kraals of yesteryear had focused attention on these vast herds. As if to confirm the latter, we heard trumpeting in the middle distance and volleys of gunshots.
We awoke next morning to the liquid notes of excited racquet-tailed drongoes. Our intrusion into their domain was the cause, for we soon discovered we had pitched camp almost directly underneath their nest. A pair of red-faced malkoha were similarly distressed for their nest was only yards away from the watcher's hut. It was, we thought, a wonderful start to the day, but as we stepped out into the open, the presence of over a hundred dusky, well-built men, carrying mammoties and axes changed all that. They were neither rude nor aggressive, only defiant. One of them asked as a simple question "have you come to drive us away?"


A panoramic view of the park with the Uva hills in the background.
Back in Colombo I went straight to then Deputy Minister of State, the late Mr. Chandra Karunaratne, crusader for wildlife and a catalyst in such matters. He appreciated the urgent need for action. Within two days I was seated in the Prime Minister's office in the old Parliament, facing not only the Prime Minister, but also the Minister for Lands and Mahaweli Development and the Members of Parliament for Kolonne, Wellawaya, Hakmana and Mulkirigala.
They were all courteous and sympathetic. But the four MPs demanded in one voice "what do you expect us to do with 12,000 angry people" I hadn't gone there unprepared.
I said softly, "can we ask for land from Sevanagala, just across the road and settle them there."
By the end of 1978 the Department had been decentralised and Uda Walawe was placed under Childers Jayewardene, Assistant Director of the Southern Range, headquartered in Yala. On one of my visits, I was taken to witness a rare sight for the recuperating Park. A herd of 16 spotted deer and at the end of the plain a lone elephant.
One member of our staff suggested that this animal was the reincarnation of one of the feudal lords who looked after the walawe elephants. They had already named it "Dissawa".
Recruitment of fauna was taking place. One evening a herd of 20 elephants crossed the Walawe ganga at our campsite at Pansadara, missing our kitchen by only a few feet.
What a tremendous sight! Sambhur were belling at regular intervals and the next evening we spotted our first leopard on the Tholigala rock. We had ample cause for celebration.
The state was now set to open Uda Walawe to the people of Sri Lanka. We selected dates, we solicited the help of the Irrigation Department to make our roads motorable.
We invited the GAs and AGAs for previews. The Magistrate, the Police, the RVDB staff... and finally Mahatun who had realized that discretion was the better part of valour - "crossed over" and said that he and his people would leave the park if we gave them land in Hambegamuwa.
And so we created history.
What we did then is not impossible even today with honesty of purpose, team spirit, fearlessness and yes, a little bit of political diplomacy.
Noel writing on the inauguration:To everybody's delight we saw 23 elephants, including several calves, drinking peacefully, with the Koslanda hills in the background... we watched them for about half an hour and wended our way back, when we saw another herd of about 50 elephants out in the open. I could hardly believe my eyes. I wondered whether the director had surreptitiously translocated 70 elephants from Lahugala for the delectation of the Deputy Minister and his party.
Yes, incredible it was. We had seen 70 elephants in an area which not long ago was alive with the screech of saw mills and the roar of bull dozers and lorries, not to mention the presence of 15,000 interlopers."
"A new miracle had been achieved."


Sri Lankan Elephants 

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Habarana Lodge
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Pidurangala and Sigiriya
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Minneriya elephants
Pix- Vidath Jayawardena Sanka Gallage
At the beginning of the last century, more than 75% of the land mass of this country was covered in natural forests. A sound understanding of the value of trees had ensured that this would be an emerald isle. One hundred years later the jewel has lost much of its lustre. Our leaders have unashamedly embraced a doctrine of development that is totally antithetical to our cultural sensibilities and a clearly benign and even reverential relationship with the natural world. Today what we have left is relatively small patches of virgin jungle, a dangerously fast depletion of biological diversity and leaders who are more than willing to bend over backwards to sell our natural resources to gene pirates and timber merchants, all in the name of "development" and "globalisation".
Profit-making, or the ethic of scraping off as much as one can as quickly as possible regardless of the cost to culture and environment, seems to be the name of the game. And now, those who can’t suffer long periods of suffocation in the urban jungle have to travel far to breathe freely, enjoy silences and the music of the wild. Terrorist threats have resulted in further diminishing the verdant acres of our beautiful island.
Among the dwindling number of locations for relaxation and rejuvenation is one which has over the years carefully built a reputation for being the most environmental friendly place for local and foreign travellers to stop by and absorb the less hectic pace of the earth’s numerous cycles and its infinite capacity to cure mankind of its most pernicious psychopathic trait, arrogance. Habarana.
Recently I met a wonderful person called Jagath Marasinghe, revolutionary, author, film critic, and professional astrologer. He described the validity associated with his science this way: "I can say that there are elephants in the jungles of Habarana. In fact right now as we speak there are elephants in the Habarana jungle. But if you were to go there tomorrow it is quite possible you may not see even one elephant. Astrology is like that."
It so happened that the very next week I got to go to Habarana along with several colleagues from the Divaina, all of whom were high spirited, fun loving individuals who were quite serious in taking life easy, Bulitha, Sanka and Vidath, and we spent a wonderful weekend, operating from one of the most scenic and environmentally friendly holiday resorts in Sri Lanka, the Habarana Lodge.
Geographically, Habarana is the most convenient and central location for those who want to visit the archaeological sites in Anuradhapura, Polonnnaruwa, Dambulla and Sigiriya. Tourists, both local and foreign, therefore use the twin hotels operated by Keells Hotel Management Services Ltd., as a kind of operational hub. Not surprisingly, those who focus on the better known and highly publicised touristy sites, do not have the time to soak in the many wonders in and around Habarana.
Habarana is surrounded by a number of solitary rocks and hills, all of which are enveloped in legend and mentioned in historical narrative. On the north there is Ritigala, famous for its medicinal plants, ancient forest hermitage and as a place of refuge for royalty. On the south there is Sigiriya, Dambulla and the lesser known and visited Pidurangala.
The Dambulu Oya, which carries water from the Mahaweli to Huruluwewa, first fills the smaller Habarana Wewa. An extended drought plus the releasing of water in order to repair the tank bund had resulted in a virtually dry tank bed. We were told that when there is water, a herd of elephants visit this place every evening. The Habarana Lodge and the Habarana Village are situated just outside the wev-thavulla of Habarana Wewa, clearly an ideal location for a hotel.
I remembered the protests over Kandalama Hotel some years ago. The tourist industry is certainly a boon to a strapped economy, but it can cause havoc with local culture and social discourse. The Habarana Village was set up in 1973 between the tank and the imposing Habarana Rock, from the top of which one could survey the surrounding terrain and the scrub jungle for miles in all directions.
From the beginning there had been an emphasis to design and maintain a holiday resort that blended with the surrounding environment. The key element of this plan was to design it along the lines of a traditional village. Thus there are no large building, just a set of separate units spread over 12 acres. Habarana Lodge which was set up in the early eighties is a slightly up-scale hotel, but adhering to the same environmentalist ethic. Spread over 29 acres, the landscaping has been directly derived from the aranya tradition, especially from Ritigala.
Care had been taken to leave intact as many trees as possible and to complement the existing tree cover with trees transported from the tank bed of the Maduru Oya reservoir. Apparently, from the air, it is not possible to believe that a spacious and well maintained hotel complex existed beneath the canopy of trees, such is the commitment made by the architects and landscape designers to the notion of living in harmony with nature.
This is not to say that the place lacks any of the modern facilities commonly available in high class tourist hotels. There are swimming pools, recreational space, and even an Ayurvedic healing centre where a full time staff of practitioners attend on the guests. The concern for the environment is not just seen in the extensive gardens, but follows the guests into their bedrooms and toilets, where there are countless suggestions for saving water and electricity. In fact the management has installed a recycling plant and a water purification system in order to impinge as little as possible on the environment which gives the hotel its special character. The vegetable garden is fertilized almost totally through this system. No wonder that the Habarana Lodge happens to be the only hotel in Sri Lanka to be accredited with the prestigious ISO 14001 certification.
According to the General Manager, Srilal Mendis, the best and most worthwhile "certification" has come from the birds. One hundred and twenty eight different bird species have been counted in the 51 acres that make up the complex. A number of these happen to be endemic to Sri Lanka while others are migratory. The hotel has a "bird trail" and bird lovers are taken through it by a knowledgeable guide.
For those who enjoy cycling, the management has designed several bicycle trails, ranging from 12 to 30 kilometers in distance. All these routes takes one through villages and over tank bunds. It is backbreaking stuff for those not used to exercise of that sort, but even the shortest route helps one get a sense of the terrain and the lifestyles of the people.
Naturally, this is a happy hunting ground for any wildlife enthusiast. Upon request, jeep safaris to Minneriya and Kaudulla can be arranged. The drivers are usually from the area and are expert trackers on their own right. We chose to go to Minneriya and Shantha, who drove the jeep, regaled us with countless stories of King Mahasen, known in the area as Minneriya Deiyo, and Kalu Bandara Deiyo. We saw over 120 elephants in two separate groups as well as many others in smaller groups.
No place can be "obtained" through a description. One can never describe bird song, the shade, or a stillness punctuated only by night sounds. Such places abound in this country blessed with so much natural wealth. Each place has a signature and a charm that is not found elsewhere. Some are more conveniently located than others. Some specialise in certain aspects. Few offer a wide range of activities and access to wonderful places of historical and aesthetic worth. Among them, Habarana must stand out as an example of what a tourist operation ought to be, for both the foreigner and the discerning and nature-loving local.



Eight baby elephants released into national parkpage1.jpg (13466 bytes)By Sanjeevi Jayasuriya
Elephants are a national asset which should be protected for the generations to come, but there is less commitment in the political sector in this regard, said Rukman Senanayake, Minister of Environment and Natural Resources last Friday.
Speaking at a ceremony to mark the releasing eight baby jumbos at the elephant transit home in Udawalawe National Park to the wild, he said that the government support is needed for this kind of humanitarian acts. The new trend that had been developed in the recent past to protect wildlife is a good sign, the Minister noted.
The elephant transit home was set up in 1995 as a pilot project by the Department of Wildlife Conservation to look after the abandoned baby elephants till they are able to take care of themselves. At present there are 31 such baby elephants and on two occasions, in 1998 and in 2000, nine of them were released to the jungle. The released elephants wear a radio collar that assist to monitor them and according to the research conducted on them, they been adjusted to their natural habitat satisfactorily.
Sri Lanka is a well resourced country and for its development a collective co-orporation by the people and the government is necessary, Minister Senanayake said. The service rendered in looking after the baby elephants at the transit home is not an eight hour job, but a full day’s work, he said and commended the staff involved.
The necessary resources will be provided by the ministry under the 100 day programme to protect the wildlife, especially the elephants, the minister said. Under the programme, the areas where the elephants live are to be expanded, he said. "We are left with only 28% forest cover now and 12% which accounted for eight lakhs of hectare of land is declared as ‘protected areas’", he explained. There are 2,500 to 3,000 elephants living in these areas and the space is not sufficient, he said. More than 40% of the elephants are living outside the protected areas, which often live in danger and the government plans to introduce new laws to protect these animals and will also amend the existing laws, he added.
The elephant death rate had been increased steadily over the last decade, mainly due to human- elephant conflict, said Dayananda Kariyawasam, Director Dept. of Wildlife Conservation. More than 42% of the elephant population live in Wayamba Province and it is estimated that 57% deaths are due to gun shot injuries, he noted. If timely measures are not taken, we would be faced with the threat of elephant extinction, he said. The male female rate in Sri Lanka is 1;3, he noted.The elephants need more protected land to live and the steps are been taken to open up more elephant’s paths including Lunugamvehera, shortly, he said. The sanctuaries will be rounded up with electric fences for their protection, he added.
The second elephant transit home will be set up in Wasgamuwa national park, Kariyawasam said. For the baby elephants, the department need funds and it has introduced a parent foster scheme to fund the monthly expenditure which amounts to Rs.10,000 for one such elephant. Under this scheme, a number of elephants are sponsored and department seek further assistance from the public, he said.


Sri Lankan leopards in Yala
 


Yala leopards appear to be much larger than average compared to elsewhere in the world. 
(by VIMUKTHI FERNANDO/ Sunday observer) The group is excited. The hassel of early rising fades into oblivion. Nothing matters now for the target of our visit sprawls on top of a huge rock, basking in the sun. A reddish-brown stain, seeps through the cavities of his upper jaw- he is relaxed after a good meal. Now, a luxurious yawn and stretch and behold the Sri Lankan leopard (Kotiya or Pulli in local parley). We are at Yala Block 1 the current location of many a magnificent specimen.
Fierce but beautiful, they are the pride of the jungles of Sri Lanka. Growing to about six to seven feet in length and weighing from 75 to 170 pounds, they are feared by all save perhaps the elephant. Being the apex predator, they carry out the essential task of controlling the population of other herbivorous animals in the jungles. It was fairly recently that they won recognition being the 'isolated' and therefore the special sub-species endemic in Sri Lanka, classified as 'panthera pardus kotiya.'
How did Yala, a location popular for sloth bears and elephants became so popular for leopards? It was the result of the undeterred efforts of two young nature lovers- Jehan Kumara a businessman and Ravi Samarasinghe a medical doctor. Supported by a group of leopard enthusiasts who spent many years in the jungles of Yala - observing, photographing, recording and enjoying leopards, they not only managed to launch a book 'For the Leopard, a tribute to Sri Lankan Leopards' in memory of Harith Perera, another leopard enthusiast but managed to draw the attention of cat-enthusiasts around the world through a British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) documentary and feature article on 'the mysteries of leopards' in the BBC Wildlife, magazine.
Their systematic observation and record keeping in Yala Block 1 over six years had enabled them identify 30 adult individual leopards by their spot patterns. However, they are "leopards sited frequently", say Jehan and Ravi. If a leopard was seen only once, it was not counted. "For the past six years we have seen about 30 cubs but do not know their whereabouts." Most of these cubs are males- for panthera pardus, a lone animal, leaves its mother's territory at sexual maturity. However, in Yala Block 1 they had observed that the "female cubs live close to their mothers, their territories overlapping each other at times." Though the leopard density in Yala Block 1, a habitat of 14,100 hectares is considered 'rather high' compared to elsewhere in the world, their observations had brought them the happy conclusion of having no sick animals there. "Take the case of the female without an eye. Even she is quite well-fed and healthy. An indication of prey in plenty."
They had also experienced the marked differences or the uniqueness of the Yala leopards; That they appear to "be much larger than average compared to elsewhere in the world, tackle much larger game such as full-grown sambhur and almost full-grown buffalo, be much more sociable and tolerant towards their species and other animals, have much smaller territories, employ ambush as the favourite method of hunting, prefer spotted deer as their favourite prey".
Meanwhile, their observations are confirmed by the husband and wife team of wildlife conservation researchers, Anjali Watson and Andrew Kittle, who carried out a joint research project with Dr. Ravi Samarasinghe at Yala Block 1, from February 2001 for eight months.
"There is no competition for food. So they are not bothered about protecting a kill. We have noted a number of kills left here and there. Leopard kills feed a number of other animals. They actively keep the prey in check", says Anjali. However, she is cautious about leopard density. "We have to be careful about this population, because it is an isolated island population. It could become a problem very soon with man expanding villages into their territories. Look at what's happening in the montane areas", she points out. Backed by the DWLC and sponsored by Jetwing Eco Holidays, research at Yala Block 1 aims to get a fundamental grasp on behaviour and topography and covered conservation needs such as identification of individual leopards, measuring population density, land requirements, eco-balance and predator-prey relationships.
However, much still remains to be done for a stable and sustainable conservation plan for this unique animal. "This is only the beginning. I hope someone would do a comprehensive study. While our observations (and initial research) have hinted at many things apart from its uniqueness, only proper research will show" says Jehan.
Sadly no professional/systematic research has been carried out regarding the leopards of Sri Lanka as yet, though it is of much importance to Sri Lankan wildlife. Ignorance dominates when it comes not only to the habits and habitats but even the numbers.
Though, the DWLC records a few observations at the protected areas Wasgomuwa, Udawalawa and Horton Plains siting about 10 to 15 animals at each area, there are no records of the specific numbers.
No research had been conducted to find out the effects on war, the restriction of habitats in the jungles of Wilpattu where the leopards prowled in plenty a decade or two ago. Though, reports of their presence in other areas such as Udawalawa, Gal Oya, Wasgomuwa, Horton Plains and Sinharaja were trickling in during the last few years, it poses the question whether the leopard density has increased or the human population is invading prime habitats of leopards.
Neither had any research been carried out on leopards in captivity. Although, the National Zoological Gardens boast of a collection of 20 leopards, 14 males and 06 females, inbreeding has largely affected the gene pool there.
Meanwhile, the leopard is still hunted for skin, teeth and bone has not changed. Three leopard skins were confiscated from poachers in 2000, while in the year 2001 the number had increased to 10. Though leopards are protected under the Fauna and Flora Ordinance since 1938 poaching goes on unabated. The trade continues in spite of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) treating the Asian leopard as an endangered animal and completely restricting any trade in leopard products since 1975. Spot pattern identification
Tall, lean, dressed simply in sombre colours and soft-spoken it was not difficult to see the medical doctor in him. But, someone who braves the wrath of the elements, day in and day out going after one of the most dangerous animals in the world... for nearly 10 years? Looks are deceptive they say... quite true. His notebook proves it.
He is Dr. Ravi Samarasinghe. One of the initiators of systematic leopard observations in Yala Block 1, Dr. Samarasinghe endeavours to identify individual animals by their "spot patterns." This is a method used internationally in identifying big cats. Spot markings on the forehead, above and below eyes and mystacial area are used to identify the individuals, along with other significant physical characteristics.
How did he become interested in leopards? "My first interest was birds. I was not interested in leopards until I met Lal Anthonis and visited the jungles together taking photographs" reminiscences Ravi. He had started keeping notes "out of habit, on the time of day, weather conditions, location and so on." In the meanwhile questions came popping up. Why do we see them sometimes and not other times? Do we see the same leopard many times or are they different ones? Why do citing increase on Poya days? and so on.
His visit to Nargahole national park in India, in 1993 was the turning point. "I noted the spot patterns used to identify leopards. This captured my interest as I was struggling to figure out whether the leopard I see in an area is the same one or a different one", says Ravi. In the next two years Ravi had taken efforts to upgrade his photographic equipment and had been only too happy to be posted at a hospital close to his favourite park- Hambantota in 1995. It gave him the opportunity to visit the Yala national park often.
His notebook is evidence. Where and when the individual animal was sited first. The sightings afterwards. Any special behaviour. Unique characteristics. Sketches, painstakingly done to perfection showing the different 'spot patterns' of each individual adorn the book. There are photographs as well. There is also a sketch of the possible territory of each individual.
"The territory of a male includes the territories of 2 or 3 females and a female's territory is determined by prey density" he tells me.
Any tips for leopard sightings in Yala? Leopards could normally be seen during early morning and late evening. Often, cubs are more tolerant than adults. When you site a leopard, the first few minutes are quite critical. It determines whether he stays or runs. So, if you suddenly locate a leopard on the way, best is to go past a few more yards and then turn and come back quietly. Worst is sudden halts. In the jungles, sudden halt is interpreted as a threat and triggers the fight or flight response. The more quiet and disciplined you are, the more opportunity to see leopards in their own habitat, says Ravi Samarasinghe.



Sri Lankan Birds & Bird Watching

New bird discovered by Sri Lankan ornithologist



A previously unknown species of a bird (a type of owl) has been discovered recently in Sri Lanka - the first such discovery in 132 years, the Ceylon Bird Club reported last week.
"The discovery of a species today is a major event in world ornithology. It happens mostly in little-explored parts of the planet. That a species should evade detection in Sri Lanka, so well covered by bird studies since colonial times, is astonishing," a bird enthusiast said.
Deepal Warakagoda, one of the world’s finest field ornithologists, had been tracking the bird by its call for several years and on January 23 he finally saw it in a wet-zone forest. As he had thought all along, it was an owl of a kind unknown in the island before.
Soon after, Chandima Kahan-dawala, accompanying Warakagoda took good photographs of the species in the wild, a remarkable feat so soon after its discovery. Ed Hagen of the USA was present on the first occasion and Nanda Senanayake, Chairman of the Ceylon Bird Club, and Udaya Sirivardana on the second.
The material gathered on the owl was studied by Dr. Pamela Rasmussen of the USA, a leading authority on the ornithology in this region, who states that the species is almost certainly new to science. Warakagoda and she are collaborating on studies to determine its taxonomy, distribution, ecology and biology, a Bird Club spokesman said.





 

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